The niche perfumery house called Serge Lutens was established in Paris by the homonymous French photographer, filmmaker, hair stylist, perfume art-director and fashion designer. The year was 2000 and until that time, Lutens has worked for many famous names, the most notable being Christian Dior, as developer of a line of cosmetics and Shiseido as creative director.
Serge Lutens fragrances are structured in 2 collections: the export line and the exclusive line and some of the scents are available in both lines. Vitriol d’Oeillet belongs to the export line and was introduced in 2011 as a shared oriental spicy developed by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake.
Because of its carefully selected distribution, until this Saturday I was not able to sniff any of these extraordinary creations and facing a dilemma over which fragrance was I supposed to choose for my first olfactory voyage into Serge Lutens’ universe, I decided for Vitriol d’Oeillet. As a result, Chergui was left for the next occasion.
From the outset, you will sense that Vitriol d’Oeillet smells different compared to the majority of mainstream fragrances, which makes is very distinguishable. The perfume’s name is French expression for “Carnation Vitriol” and the press release mentions the words “angry carnation” and list notes of cayenne, black pepper, pink pepper, nutmeg and clove.
Vitriol d’Oeillet begins on a spicy note, obtained by blending 3 types of pepper and advances quickly into the mid development. At this phase, the aroma of carnation fights for prominence, after which it shifts to a musky base that leaves a pleasant trail on the skin. The liquid has a mild violet color, hosted in the famous Serge Lutens’ signature bottle: squared and with elegant shapes. Overall, Vitriol d’Oeillet is a special fragrance that offers an innovative interpretation to the outdated carnation theme.
Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet Perfume Details
- Vitriol d’Oeillet by Serge Lutens is available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum Spray; the lasting power is average (6 to 10 hours) and the sillage is good.
- Olfactory Group: Oriental Spicy
- For: Unisex
- Year Introduced: 2011
- Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
- Recommended Wear: Day
- Dress Code: Casual