This post marks a premiere for me, because it is the first time that I’m sampling a perfume prior to its official launch. And this happened thanks to an artisanal perfumery boutique which for me, stands as a reference of how this businesses are supposed to be conducted.
The fragrance in question is Heliotrope, the most recent from Olivier Durbano (which is due to be presented at the 10th Edition of the Pitti Fragrance Exhibition in Florence, held this year between 14 and 16 September), a unisex woody floral musk and the 8th in the fragrance series inspired by jewels and named Bijoux de Pierres Poemes (Stone Poem Jewels). For me this was the fourth perfume (after Rock Crystal, Black Tourmaline and Citrine) I tested from this fascinating house and I must tell you that I found each and every one beguiling.
Heliotrope is named after the plant with the same name however the true source of inspiration relies in the mineral also known as bloodstone, which is a green chalcedony with red inclusions of iron oxide and red jasper. According to Wikipedia the name “heliotrope” was derived from an ancient source that mentioned the way in which this rock reflects the light, while the red formations that look like blood spots granted it with the second name, bloodstone. Moreover, heliotrope is also the traditional birthstone for March.
In Heliotrope is once again found the signature accord of Olivier Durbano, incense, this time coupled with floral accords and a hint of powder side. The fragrance starts off with a spicy citrus combination that contains chili pepper, ginger, red mandarin, angelica, elemi resin and frankincense. Then, as Heliotrope moved into the mid development phase, I could detect the aroma of heliotrope mixed with magnolia; the other listed heart notes encompassed nagarmotha and saffron. Preserving its soft incense touch (this aroma is in here attenuated, compared to the other scents in the series, so if you’re a real incense fan, better think twice!) all the way to the final stage, Heliotrope dries down to a woody musky base, imbued with accords of musk, grey amber, benzoin, cedarwoood, sandalwood and myrrh.
With respect to the flacon, the perfume arrives in the classic Olivier Durbano’s bottle, in which the transparent glass allows us to observe the nice red shade of the liquid and, like with every perfume launched so far, the name is not printed on the bottle. Definitely an interesting fragrance, Heliotrope is one excellent choice for the lovers of woody floral musk, highlighted with a few special notes.
Olivier Durbano Heliotrope Perfume Details
- Heliotrope by Olivier Durbano is available in 100 ml Eau de Parfum Spray; the lasting power is above average (more than 10 hours!) and the sillage is good.
- Olfactory Group: Woody Floral Musk
- For: Unisex
- Year Introduced: 2012
- Recommended Wear: Day
- Dress Code: Casual