At the time I heard the name Neela Vermeire for the first time it was during a discussion with the owner of my favorite perfumery boutique, a place dedicated to artisanal perfumery and special perfumers. I confess that I was somewhat reluctant to her new discovery from the passed April and although she recommended me as the only fragrance she considered acquiring it for herself in the last 5 years, I said I was not interested.
Then, in my abiding quest for a favorite incense fragrance (of course, from the ones already on the market, because as far as I can tell, my perfect incense fragrance needs yet to be conceived!) I stumble upon Trayee and I was so impressed by its description that I instantly put it down on my “to test” list.
Founded by Neela Vermeire, a perfume expert with a “keen awareness of the difference good natural raw materials can make” (quote from the official website), the house was called Neela Vermeire Creations. The Parisian based house debuted in the business almost one year ago, with the release of a series composed of three perfumes, imagined with India as the source of inspiration, and for which Neela Vermeire decided to collaborate with the Bertrand Duchaufour, the nose behind L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances since 2008.
Given that Mr. Duchaufour is also the developer of an excellent incense fragrance, Comme de Garcons Series 3: Incense Avignon (already for a long time on my “to test” list, hope I’ll sniff it next year!), it gave me an extra boost to sample Trayee. Deemed as a unisex oriental spicy, this fragrance was inspired by India’s Vedic tradition, according to which the wisdom is eternal. The name (pronounce “try-ee”) signifies “triad” as a reference to the sacred origin of the first three Vedas, the most ancient holy texts in India.
Bursting with so much knowledge with respect to a perfume, I finally got to test Trayee last month and from the first sniff, I realized that I was enjoying a well-done fragrance, in my humble opinion one of the most complex done in the last years. The opening of Trayee transports you into a green accord that advances slowly into the mid development, to finally reach the most important phase for me, the base, which represents a sophisticate combination of woody notes with a smoky facet that’s absolutely amazing. The list of official notes is impressive and includes no more than 23 notes (apart from the ones kept private): blue ginger from Madagascar, Elemi oil, cinnamon bark, ganja effects, blackcurrant absolute, basil, Sambac jasmine absolute, Egyptian jasmine absolute, cardamom absolute, clove, saffron, sandalwood, Javanese vetiver, Haitian vetiver, incense, Mysore sandalwood oil, patchouli, myrrh, vanilla, cedar, amber, oudh palao from Laos and oakmoss.
The flacon that holds the fragrance is very elaborate, made from transparent ribbed glass in the shape of a column, stretching at the base and having a larger support, while being topped by a metallic stopper. The neck of the bottle is decorated with a slim violet ribbon and the perfume is believed to induce an effect of aromatherapy.
After this test, in spite of its excellent composition and highly praised materials, I decided to leave Trayee out of my “to buy” list for the moment, however I strongly recommend it, as a scent that will leave you with a very pleasant impression.
Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee Perfume Details
- Trayee by Neela Vermeire Creations is available in 55 ml Eau de Parfum Spray; the lasting power is above average (more than 10 hours!) and the sillage is excellent.
- Olfactory Group: Oriental Spicy
- For: Unisex
- Year Introduced: 2011
- Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour
- Recommended Wear: Day and Evening
- Dress Code: Casual